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Bangkok's Dusk Begins on the River

The Journal · Destinations — One Hour on the Chao Phraya

Bangkok's traffic is world-famous; the locals' answer is the river. Board a boat at dusk and the city turns its best side toward you.

The Fifteen-Baht Cruise

The orange-flag ferry is Bangkok's cheapest sightseeing boat. For fifteen baht, the spires of Wat Arun slide past you in the sunset — closer than any dinner cruise will ever get you.

The Order Inside the Night Market

Bangkok's night markets look chaotic but run on strict zoning: one lane for food, one for clothes, a corner for massage. Bargaining opens at forty percent off by mutual understanding — and smiling while you haggle is part of the rules.

The Grammar of the Smile

The Thai wai has registers: hands to the brow for a monk, to the chin for a peer. Can't master it? No matter — returning a smile is never wrong.