The Inflight Edit · JOURNAL
Island Time, Okinawa
The Journal · Destinations — The Island That Sets Its Watch Back
Okinawans have a word — uchinaa time: the agreed hour is only a suggestion. Land in Naha, and the first skill to learn is slowing down.
A Sea in Layers
From the shore outward you can count seven blues in the Okinawan sea. Divers say the finest layer sits five metres down — just enough sunlight, just enough fish.
Two Rails, Then Four Wheels
Naha's monorail has exactly two lines; beyond the city you'll need a car. Driving on the left feels tense on day one — by day two you'll be in love with the coastal road. Save the sea-gazing for the pull-offs; on the road, the road is the star.
Island Songs and Awamori
The izakaya owner may suddenly pick up a sanshin and sing an island song, and the whole room claps along. Awamori is ranked by its years, and ice or water is never an insult — in Okinawa, comfort is the etiquette.